Tighten the bow. Once you've set up your music stand and
sheet music, open the case and remove the bow. The hair of the bow should be
limp. Tighten the bow hair by turning the end screw clockwise until the space
between the hair and the stick is big enough to pass a pencil through cleanly
from tip to tip.
·
The hair shouldn't be
too limp, or too tight. The hair should not be parallel to the wooden part of
the bow, but with the wooden part curving slightly toward the
hair.Don't use your pinky
finger as a gauge because the oil from your skin will transfer to the the hair,
which needs to remain oil-free to get the best sound from the strings.
2
Rosin the bow. Rosin comes in two types, dark and
light; either is fine to use, and neither is expensive. In warmer climates,
light is preferred, dark is recommended in more northern areas. If you live in
an unpredictable climate, it is advisable to have both. It's usually a
rectangle of hard, translucent material in a paper or cardboard casing that's
open on two sides. Grip the rosin by the papered sides and gently but
vigorously rub it up and down along the length of the bow hair three or four
times. The goal is to transfer some of the rosin “dust” onto the hair, making
it stickier. You will need to rosin your bow about every time you practice.
·
If you don't think the
rosin is producing any "dust", take a key, sandpaper, a coin, or any
other sharp object, and lightly scratch the rosin. You will see some light
streaks if you scratched hard enough.
·
Too much rosin will
cause the bow to grip too well, producing a scratchy sound. If you over-rosin
your bow, it's fine; it'll just take a few hours of playing to bring it back
down to the correct level.
·
If this is a newly
haired bow, it may need more rosin than normal. Draw the flat side of the bow
hair across a string to see if it makes a clear sound after three or four
strokes of rosin. If it doesn't, add a couple more.
3
Tune the violin. Set the bow aside for a moment and take
the violin out of the case. The strings, in order from lowest tone to highest,
should be tuned to G, D, A, and E. You can usually purchase an electric tuner
from $15 to $20 dollars depending on the quality and brand. Major adjustments
can be made with the tuning pegs in the scroll of the violin, but if the tone
seems only a little bit off, use the tiny metal dials near the bottom, called fine
tuners, to make your adjustments instead. Once you're satisfied, return the
violin to the open case for a moment. You probably would like to have a
professional tune your violin first.
·
Rely on a tone whistle
to find the correct notes, or simply look sound files up on the Internet.
·
Not all violins have
fine tuners, but they can be installed by a shop. Some violins may have only
one fine tuner, on the E string. Some violinists can make do with just that one
fine tuner, while others may prefer to get the rest.
4
Grip the bow. Use the balance point to learn to hold
the bow and even out the weight. When you think you are ready to grip the bow
like a professional, start by gently laying the middle part of your index
finger on the grip (the slightly padded part of the stick, usually a few inches
above the tightening knob). Place the tip of your pinky on the flat part of the
stick near the base, keeping it slightly curved. The ring and middle fingers
should rest with their middle parts in line with the tip of your pinky, and
their tips on the side of the frog (the black piece that connects the
tightening knob to the the hair). Your thumb should rest underneath the stick,
at the front of the frog, near or on the bow hair.
·
It might feel a bit
uncomfortable at first, but over time, it will form into a habit.
·
Your hand should be
relaxed and loose, and somewhat rounded as if holding a small ball. Don't let
your palm close or rest on the bow. This reduces the control you have over the
movement of the bow, which becomes increasingly important as your skill
increases.
5
Hold the violin. Stand or sit with a straight back. Pick
it up by its neck with your left hand and bring the butt of the instrument up
to your neck. Rest the lower back of the violin on your collar bone and hold it
in place with your jaw. To learn notes however, you should hold it guitar style
and buy a music book. It helps a whole lot.
·
Your jaw, just under
the earlobe (not your chin), is supposed to be resting on the chin rest. This
helps prevent the instrument from sliding off your shoulder. (This is also why
violinists on TV always seem to be looking down and to the right.
6
Perfect your hand
position. Place your hand
under the top part of the neck and support the violin so that the scroll is
pointing out away from you. Hold it steady by resting the side of your thumb on
the neck, and allow your four fingers to arch over the fingerboard, which is
the black plate covering the front of the neck.
·
Beware of the
"wimpy wrist" where your left wrist is touching the fingerboard.
This, too, could turn into a habit if you don't fix it.
·
As a beginner, your
hand should be as far up the neck as possible while still allowing your pointer
finger to come down on the fingerboard. Eventually you'll learn to slide your
hand up and down to reach higher notes quickly.
7
Play the strings. Place the flat side of the bow hair
approximately halfway between the bridge (the flimsy-looking wooden stand 3/4
of the way down the strings that keeps them tented) and the fingerboard, so
that it's directly over the belly (front body) of the violin. Pull the bow
along the string as straight as you can, parallel to the bridge, applying a
small amount of pressure. A sound should emanate from the violin. Also tilt the
bow hair towards bridge at a 45 degree angle.
·
More pressure equals
louder sound, but too much pressure makes it scratchy. Light pressure should
produce a continuous tone from end to end of the bow; if there are gaps, the
bow needs more rosin.
·
If you play too close
to the bridge, it may also sound scratchy.
·
Tilt the bow slightly
toward the scroll and your tone will be more focused, producing a more
professional sound.
8
Practice playing open
strings (G,D,A and E in order from top to bottom string).Open strings are simply strings played without
fingertips on them. Rest the neck of the violin in the space between the left
thumb and first finger. Hold the bow with your wrist, elbow, shoulder and
contact point on the string within one plane. Change strings by raising or
lowering the elbow to bring the bow to the proper height. Try short strokes of
6 inches (15.2 cm) or so in the middle of the bow at first, then try half
strokes from the frog to the middle and back again. Work your way up to full-length
strokes.
·
Short and long strokes
are both important techniques for playing the violin, so don't feel as though
you're wasting time practicing with short strokes.
·
Continue practicing
until you can play one string at a time without touching the other strings.
It's important to develop control so you don't accidentally play a note you
didn't want to play.
9
Practice playing other
notes. It takes a lot
of practice to master the pressure and positioning required to get your fingers
to produce clear notes on the fingerboard. Start with your strongest finger,
the pointer finger. Using the tip only, press down firmly on the highest string
(the E string). You don't need to use as much pressure as you do with guitar
strings; a modest but firm amount is enough. Draw the bow across the E string
to produce a slightly higher note. If you are holding the violin properly, your
finger should naturally come down about half an inch below the nut (the top of
the fingerboard), producing an F note.
·
Add notes. Once you're
able to produce a clear note, try putting the tip of your middle finger down a
little ways below the pointer finger on the fingerboard. Keep both fingers down
and play another, higher note. Finally, set the ring finger ahead of the middle
finger and repeat the process. The pinkie is also used, but takes considerably
more practice to master. For now, just worry about the other three fingers.
·
Add strings. Try
playing four notes (open, pointer, middle, and ring) on all four strings. Pay
attention to the amount of pressure you need to produce a clear note on each
one.
10
Practice scales. A scale is a series of notes that ascend
and descend in a pattern of steps (usually 8, sometimes 5) that starts at one
note and ends at a higher or lower version of the same note. An easy (and
useful) scale for beginners is the D Major scale, which starts on the open D
string. From there, place your fingers down in order (as described above) and
play each note: D (open), E, F sharp, G (which should be produced by your
third, or ring, finger). To complete the scale, play the next highest open
string, A, and then repeat the pattern on the A string to play B, C sharp, and
finally D with your third finger.
·
When properly played,
the D Major scale (and in fact, every major scale) should match the sound of
the famous “Do, Re, Mi, Fa, So, La, Ti, Do” singing scale. If you don't know
what that is, look it up online or watch the musical film “The Sound of Music,”
which features a memorable and well-known song called “Do Re Mi” that explains
it.
·
If you can't seem to
get the sound right, remember: place the first finger a finger's width from the
nut, the second finger a finger's width from the first, and the third finger
touching the second. If you prefer, ask your music shop or teacher to tape the
finger positions for you with white tape, so you have a visual guide.
·
Other scales, such as
minor, harmonic, and even pentatonic (5-note) scales exist, but those can be
studied, practiced, and internalized later.
11
Practice every day. Start with a short time (15 or 20
minutes) and work a little longer every day until you reach an hour, or you
can't find any more time to play. Serious violinists often practice for 3 or
more hours per day; then again, many violinists at that level get money for
playing. Practice as much as you reasonably can, and keep at it. Even sounding
good enough to play a few simple songs can take months, but eventually, things
will begin to come together.
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